BLIND PEOPLE SEE AGAIN Travel Journal - 1996 (Part 3) Azerbaijan

Monday June 17, 1996: Baku, Azerbaijan: Fortunate for us, the oil company guesthouse is equipped with a marvelous workout gym. I got up early this morning and made use of their stair-climber machine, stationary bicycle, and treadmill. Anna Marie and I ate breakfast and were all ready to go to the ship to see the crowds lined up for eye examinations. Dr. Carlos had already performed four intraocular lens-transplant operations this morning.

From the ship we traveled north of the city along the coast about forty kilometers to where the new oil camp is located. They are constructing new roads, new off-shore platforms, new refinery buildings, and new pipelines from Baku north to Russia and northwest to the Black Sea. Lots of money is being poured into the project, which is joint-ventured by eleven major oil companies.

The oil group had allowed us to store the containers of donated medical goods inside their highly secured storage area until they were needed. Trucks were already there when we arrived.

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They were transferring the medical goods from the two containers we had shipped. Personnel from the Innernest Orphanage were there collecting the things we had designated for them. They were loading the mattresses, beds, and medical goods for the orphanage clinic onto the waiting truck. The goods would then be taken to the orphanage in time for us to go there in the afternoon and make the official presentation to the directors.

It always gives me a funny feeling to be halfway around the world somewhere and see all the items being unloaded that had been in our Denver warehouse. I recall loading the individual pieces of equipment and boxes of supplies and remember just how they were all carefully fitted into the cargo container. I have fond memories of going up to the hospitals or clinics and picking up many of those pieces, perhaps on some snowy, wintery day in Colorado. And I love to see the looks on the people’s faces who are receiving the medical goods, and hear them say as they discover their new presents, “Wow, look at this! This is really good stuff.”

Today, Dr. Harper, head of Vision International, who since 1966 has had a goal of placing a Christian eye clinic in every major city in Central Asia, was with us. As he watched the goods being unloaded from the two containers onto the truck, he was astounded.

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“I’ve never seen such good quality merchandise as this. How were you able to get these kinds of supplies and equipment donated?”

I simply replied that it was not through our ingenuity or cleverness that it happened but through the wisdom and direction of God himself.

After the loads for the orphanage were transferred and the goods were on their way, Anna Marie and I had lunch. The people at the oil company invited us to join them at the camp cafeteria. The food was great, and eating with the oil-company workers gave us a feeling as to what it would be like to leave your home, perhaps in the United States, and go to an obscure oil-field location to work.

The oil-company housing is situated around the cafeteria and the office complex. All the buildings are white and are portable and modular in construction. Indeed, they would have to pay me a whole lot of money to go out there and live for a couple of years to direct an operation like that.

With lunch finished, the driver returned Anna Marie and me to the city, where we checked in once again on the eye operations on the big ship. By now the sun was very hot, and lines of people had formed anywhere there might be a bit of shade. Anna Marie and I went to the top deck of the ship and snapped some pictures of the site. Today is the last day the operations will be performed. None of the people gathered outside the ship will have a ghost of a chance to be included on the list of procedures.

We went back down into the hold of the ship to see how many operations Dr. Carlos and his surgery team had completed. They had already finished twelve. That meant that already, twelve people who were blind with cataracts yesterday will be able to see again in a couple of days—an absolute miracle.

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Anna Marie and I gave the team our words of encouragement and then went back up on deck to get some fresh air. The hold of the steel ship was an oven. I didn’t know exactly how hot it was down there, but I had to leave and get some fresh air. The doctors and nurses had been there working steadily on such a nerve-racking procedure, realizing that one mistake in cutting open the eyeball, removing the old eye lens, and replacing it with a new one … one slipup, and the patient would be blind forever. One faux pas, and all Christian witness through medical help in a strict Muslim country would turn against us, and our efforts would end up worse than if we had never shown up in the first place.

As we went up on deck, I witnessed perhaps one of the saddest situations I have ever encountered. Jay Randall was standing at the top of the stairs leading to the side door into the ship and announcing to the people that there was no possible way that they would get a turn to be operated on until at least next May. There were already ninety-some people who had been examined and were on the waiting list. But the people who had been waiting in line would not even be examined for the procedure.

Some of the older people who were accompanied by family or friends turned and fell into the arms of those closest to them and began to cry out loud. They could not see. They had heard about wonderful doctors who had come to do operations. Some of their friends could already see again. They had their hopes up that one day they would be able to see their family’s faces again and be able to walk again unassisted. They had hoped that perhaps today would be the day for their miracle. But, no … not this time. Their hopes were dashed like the oil-slick tide against the Caspian Sea barrage. No help. No more hope. They cried.

Some of the family members were crying, and Jay had to explain that if they would line up, have their pictures taken, and give their names, they would be called first next May when a new team from America returns to Baku to do more eye operations. From just watching the emotional earthquake taking place, I was nearly as caught up in the grief and disappointment as were the families. I felt my eyes well with tears, and my chest got heavy with the emotion I was seeing.

Several of the people spotted Anna Marie and me and came over to us, begging for us to represent them so they could still get the operation. It really was sad.

We left the ship, and Dr. Carlos and his crew went back to work on as many from the list as possible. Our driver then headed south out of Baku to the orphanage. We were about to move from one emotional experience to an even deeper one.

When we finally arrived, the truck carrying our medical goods was already there and nearly unloaded. I got out of our vehicle and went to the front entryway of the orphanage to inspect the Project C.U.R.E. items that were to be left there. I was really impressed … and so was the staff at the orphanage. It was like Christmastime. We met the directors and staff of the institution. They briefed us on the facility and told us that they presently have 110 children. Almost all of them are not only orphaned but are also mentally and physically impaired.

The plan was to next take us on a tour of the location. As in every orphanage, the children were so starved for a smile or a touch or a hug that they literally mobbed us. The kids were extremely pathetic. And as they were hanging on to every available handhold of our bodies, the director told us to please be careful and watch ourselves, because for the past several weeks, the children had come down with something that was causing all their hair to fall out. The majority of them also had large sores over their bodies and faces.

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I looked over at Anna Marie. She was nearly in shock. Her life is kids. Whenever she goes through the supermarket, kids literally lean out of their own mothers’ arms and try to come to her. All the kids at the orphanage were being drawn to her now, as if she were some giant magnet. The kids somehow sensed her love and moved toward her en masse. I dropped back beside her and physically formed a blockade for her so that she would have a little space.

We were led upstairs to a room about twenty feet by twenty feet. There were about fifteen children gathered in the room. Every parent’s or expectant parent’s very worst nightmares were represented there. Kids were there who had been rejected for the most obvious of physical reasons—craniofacial disorders, such as double hair lips and cleft palates; severe malnutrition; badly disfigured faces and twisted little bodies; and severe motor disabilities. And most of them were suffering from easily observable mental disorders.

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It was without question the worst situation I had ever experienced in my visits to orphanages around the world.

The lady taking care of the children in that room said she has worked at the facility for over twenty years and receives four dollars per month for her services.

None of the other wards were quite like that one. In another ward, Dr. Harper was asked to examine some of the children who had gone blind in either one or both eyes. Following his examinations, he told the directors that a whole lot of the health problems the children in the orphanage were suffering could be cured with a little soap and clean water.

I left the orphanage with some strange feelings. I knew that even as good as the medical supplies were, we were not going to significantly change the lives of most of those kids. However, I saw something else happening. The directors, especially a young woman from Norway who had come to help in that awful place, took on a totally different countenance as they watched the things being unloaded from the truck.

One of the things we had sent was a new stationary exercise bicycle. The Norwegian girl was so excited. She said, “We have talked about and hoped for something like this to put in one of our rooms. During the severe winters here, the children can’t go outside. Now the bigger ones will have some way to exercise and work off their energy while staying inside.”

It reminded me once again of what Vilmar Trombeta in Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil, told me after Project C.U.R.E. delivered a forty-foot container of medical goods to him: “Mr. Jackson, you bring many good medical things to us in Brazil. But you bring much more to us. The most important thing you bring to us is hope. To know that someone else knows about us and our problems and is willing to come help us, that gives us hope. We can continue if we have hope.”

As Anna Marie and I drove away from the Baku orphanage, I not only thought about the horribly pathetic kids we saw there and the political and social philosophy of the Communists who had, like in Romania and other places, allowed or encouraged such institutions to exist, but I also thought about the medical supplies things that were stacked outside the front porch of that large block building and the looks on the faces of those staff members. I thought, I’d do the collecting, loading, and shipping and come to this place all over again if I could once again be a part of the plan to bring encouragement and hope to the people who are daily asked to give their lives for such an institution. I want to be someone who brings hope.

From the orphanage Anna Marie and I once again returned to the ship to check on the final operations. We then had the driver return us to the guesthouse, where we ate and turned in for the night.

Tuesday, June 18

Through the night I kept thinking about the pitiful little children at the Baku orphanage. I would wake up angry, and my mind would go back to what I had encountered when I was in Bucharest, Romania. There the Communist dictator was intent on building a great army for Romania. In order for him to have an army, he needed lots of human bodies. So his program was to encourage every virile man to impregnate every available female and turn the country’s population into a baby machine. He promised them that once the babies were born, the parents would not have to take care of them, but rather, the state would take full responsibility for raising the nation’s future army. Not only would the children be cared for properly, but they would grow up thinking the way they “ought” to think.

Hundreds of orphanages were set up in Romania. After the people of Romania finally revolted against Ceauşescu, commandeered his helicopter, and took the dictator and his mean wife to an abandoned farm, they gave them a mock trial and then shot them to death.

Project C.U.R.E. had gone to Romania not long after the overthrow of Ceauşescu. We were able to use about $300,000 worth of medical supplies, along with some cash raised by Monty Ortman and Mike Ingram, two dedicated businessmen from Arizona to purchase one of the buildings in downtown Bucharest that had been used for one of the orphanages. While we were there, we learned a lot about Communist orphanages in Romania. They would select the best and healthiest kids and reject the others. The crippled and inferior or disabled children who had come along as a result of the “baby machine” were placed in special homes and were pretty much allowed to die. I understood from our sources there, that for the most part, they fed them very little and then during the winter would simply discontinue providing the special orphanages with any heat. The children in their weakened condition would quite quickly catch pneumonia or some other malady and quietly die. Or the other alternative was to allow humanitarian organizations from the Western world to take the undesirable children and place them with adoption agencies.

Perhaps all of that was running through the back of my mind when we visited the Innernest Orphanage. Dr. Harper shared with me that one of the most sinister uses of orphanages under the Communist regime was to punish anyone considered to be in opposition to the state. The Communist governments would take the children of those people, put them in an orphanage, brainwash them, and train them to unknowingly be the ones who would go back and kill their parents as the ultimate punishment for their opposition.

I do not wake up in the middle of the night with the same reactions to orphanages, let’s say, that I had visited in Uganda or Rwanda. Those little kids were sharp and in every way normal, except for the deep scars they bore from witnessing their moms and dads being hacked to death with machetes by members of another tribe seeking to eradicate them all through genocide.

Any way I look at it, I have to conclude that the creation called humankind, left on its own, is very capable of performing some dastardly acts of mischief and terror. The driving force behind all we do at Project C.U.R.E. is to somehow get out the message to millions of people that there is an alternative. There is a power that can change the wanton and corrupt nature of fallen humankind, and that power can allow them to become people of dignity, compassion, responsibility, and worth.

Next Week: “It’s Another One of Your Angels”  


"YOU CAN'T GET TO AKTAU FROM HERE." Travel Journal - 1996 Azerbaijan (Part 2)

Saturday June 15, 1996: Baku, Azerbaijan: I have always felt that Lufthansa airline is a very reliable company. They have a ticket office in the Hyatt hotel, so this morning I decided to see if they would help with the needed flights for the next couple of weeks. Rose Ann, my travel agent, had finally given up on trying to get any flights scheduled from Denver and told me that my only hope would be to go to the airports in the cities where we would be staying and see if I could find the right line in which to stand. But perhaps I could let Lufthansa take care of all our flights now that we had gotten to Baku.

I went into the ticket office, put my travel agent’s card on the desk, and said, “I would like for you to help me secure flights from Baku to Aktau, from Aktau to Almaty, Kazakhstan, from Almaty to Tashkent, Uzbekistan, and even perhaps from Tashkent to Andijon.”

The two girls behind the desk just looked at each other. “We don’t fly there,” they said.

“Where?” I asked.

“There,” they replied.

I knew that I had overloaded the system. So I resorted to another approach. I wrote on a piece of paper. “Baku to Aktau as soon as possible.”

“We know where Baku is, but we have never heard of Aktau. Are you sure it is spelled correctly?”

I said, “You are on the west side of the Caspian Sea in Azerbaijan. Aktau is just across the Caspian Sea on the east shore in Kazakhstan. Do you have a map?”

They brought out a map, and I pointed out to them the neighboring city of Aktau.

“Oh yes, there it is … but Lufthansa does not fly there,” they replied.

“Who does fly there?” I inquired.

“No one. In fact, we don’t think you can get there. We’ve never known of anyone who has.”

“Okay … could you check on your computer and tell me what other airlines might fly into Aktau?”

“We can’t. We only have Lufthansa’s schedule.”

“Okay, how would I find out which airlines might fly into Aktau?”

“Well, you really have to go to the airport and queue up in the line. Maybe one airline would fly to Aktau, but most flights aren’t on Saturday or Sunday, so you could not find out until Monday.”

“Okay, if you, as travel agents, wanted to go across the Caspian Sea from Baku to Aktau, where would you start? What would you do?” I asked.

“Oh, we would never want to go to Aktau!”

“Could I take a boat? Is there a ferry from Baku to Aktau?”

“We wouldn’t have any way of knowing that, but you might check with Azerbaijan Airlines. They schedule things like that sometimes.”

“But Azerbaijan Airlines is closed today, you said. So how would I ask?”

“Well, there is a ticket office in an office building, but you would have to go several kilometers there to find out.”

“Could I take a taxi and get there?”

“Yes.”

“Would you please write down on a piece of paper the name of the hotel so I could give it to a taxi driver, and he could take us there?”

“Oh yes. We would be glad to go outside the hotel and tell the taxi driver where he should take you.”

It was a slim lead, but I had to figure out some way to get two tickets for us, or we would spend the rest of our lives in Baku.

The taxi driver took us to the office where the tickets were supposed to be purchased … Wrong place. In all, we went to four different locations before we located the right spot in a downtown hotel where they sold Azerbaijan Airline tickets. At a little cage in the hotel, where the ticket office was located, I asked if Azerbaijan Airlines flew to Aktau.

“Yes, but only on Mondays and Thursday.”

“Okay, I need two tickets.”

“Let me see your passport,” the woman replied. “And if you want two tickets, you will need to present two passports. Oh, I don’t see a visa for Kazakhstan in your passport. I can’t sell you a ticket into Kazakhstan unless you have a visa to get in.”

“No,” I countered, “it is not required that I have a visa to Kazakhstan. I was instructed that if I have a Russian visa into Moscow, I can travel into Kazakhstan for three days without a Kazakhstan visa—and, as you see in my passport, I have my stamps for entering and exiting Moscow.”

“But I don’t see a visa pasted in your passport for Russia.”

I then tried to explain to her not only about the instructions from the Kazakhstan and Russian embassies in the USA but also about how the woman at the Moscow passport control had kept our Russian visas when we exited—over my sincere protests.

To no avail … to no avail. I finally conceded and asked where, on a Saturday morning, I could get a Kazakhstan visa. The woman in the cage wrote down the name of another building in downtown Baku, and I took it hoping she knew what she was talking about. Fortunately I had asked the taxi driver to wait for me while I was in the hotel.

On the way back out to the taxi, I realized that we would also need Anna Marie’s passport. So I had the driver take us all the way back to our hotel to fetch her passport. Then it was back downtown to find the Kazakhstan visa building.

After finding the right floor and the right cubbyhole office, I stated my case to two short men who could hardly speak any English. They both agreed that I needed a new Kazakhstan visa, because even though Russia told us it was not necessary, Kazakhstan was not a part of the Russian Federation, even though they had been a part of the old Soviet Union. The Russians just don’t like the Kazakhs, and they weren’t going to be helpful in any way.

“So,” the men said, “we don’t like the Russians, and we won’t honor what they told you. Besides, it will cost you sixty US dollars in cash for each visa.”

By that time I figured I had already spent too much time and energy on the procedures and their petty country arguments, so I pulled out my wallet and started to take out $120 to pay them.

Then they announced, “But we cannot issue a visa to you without the original copy of a letter of personal invitation from someone in Kazakhstan for you to come to visit on these requested dates.”

“But I sent that letter to your embassy in Washington, D.C., and they informed me that I did not need a visa, so they kept the letter.”

“Too bad—we must have a letter, or no visa.”

Now when the laundry has your clothes, and they say, “No tickie, no laundry.” Then you better find the “tickie.” So back to the taxi and back across town to our hotel for something we could use as a letter of invitation. We were running out of time, as all the government offices would close at 2:00 p.m. I was beginning to think that perhaps we would spend the rest of our lives in Azerbaijan as “missionaries by entrapment.”

Back at the hotel, I dumped all my paperwork for the trip out on the bed and began frantically scrambling through it. Fortunately I had brought the Request for Assistance forms from the three hospitals I would be visiting in Aktau. Somehow I had to get the Kazakh people to allow me to use those forms as letters of personal invitation.

It worked. “No tickie, no laundry … no visa, no medical supplies.” I plainly told the men at the visa office that if I didn’t get my visas, I would see to it that their country would not get my medical supplies. I got the visas and, after another episode, also secured our tickets to Aktau. We will have to work on getting tickets from Aktau to Almaty, Kazakhstan; from Almaty to Tashkent, Uzbekistan; and from Tashkent to Andijon, Uzbekistan, and back to Tashkent another day.

We had tied up the little taxi driver for what seemed to be forever, but he just kept rubbing his fingertips together, smiling a lot about our misfortune and his new fortune. On the way back to our hotel, I had him swing by one last place. I figured that by now we had pretty much purchased his taxi, so it wouldn’t be a whole lot more for one more stop. I wanted to visit the ship that was docked in the harbor downtown where our eye surgeries were being performed.

Project C.U.R.E. had sent two containers of medical supplies to Baku in January. They had already arrived, and much of the supply inventory was already being used. The supplies were to be divided up between a hospital in Baku, an orphanage outside Baku, and the Caspian Sea Vision International project.

The vision clinic had been set up in a rented portion of a big white ship that was docked in Baku.

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Word spread throughout the two and a half million citizens of Baku that Christian eye doctors would be performing free eye surgeries on about one hundred people from Baku and the surrounding area. The patients would be examined first to see if their conditions qualified them for surgery. Project C.U.R.E.’s donated medical supplies and equipment were utilized in the operating room in the hold of the ship.

When the taxi dropped us off at the ship, I was amazed at the number of people who had shown up for the preexamination.

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Long lines of people were waiting outside the doorway into the ship. The doctors were averaging about twenty intraocular lens transplants per day. Monday will be the last day that the surgeries will be performed for the present time.

The operations only take place when teams of eye surgeons come from the USA or some other country to donate their services to the area people. The doctors bring along nurses and really set up an assembly-line surgery procedure.

It really is hard to describe the emotions and excitement of the people who are operated on to have their cataracts removed or some other lens correction done and come out of the operation able to see for the first time in years—or in some cases, for the first time ever.

I was really pleased to see that there in the hold of the ship, which had been converted into an operating room, were stacks of disposable supplies that were once in our warehouse in Denver. All our efforts and all our goofy episodes with bureaucratic ninnies finally made sense. Those people in a Muslim world receiving their sight by the healing hands of Christian doctors is what Project C.U.R.E. is all about.

At the ship I talked to Jay Randall, who apologized and said that they were expecting us to arrive tonight at the airport, not last night, and that he had made arrangements for us to be moved from the Hyatt hotel to an oil-company-consortium guesthouse for the rest of our stay.

Anna Marie and I left the ship and made the transfer. Then we ate dinner at the guesthouse and wearily hit the bed.

Sunday, June 16

An oil-company car was waiting for us after breakfast at the guesthouse to take us to church this morning. It was a newly formed church, of course, and they were allowed to meet in a performing-arts theater in the Aeroflot airlines building in downtown Baku. I was quite surprised at the size of the crowd in attendance. The theater was nearly full of mostly young people in their twenties or thirties, and they clapped a lot as they sang with the local praise and worship group.

Following the morning service, Anna Marie and I were invited to go with a group of the church people for an outing at the beach north of Baku. They had rented an old city bus to take us. The driver proceeded to try to get as close to the water as possible upon our arrival. You guessed it … He stuck the bus up to its frame in the soft sand.

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So while we ate our picnic, and the majority of the group went swimming in the skuzzy Caspian Sea, the hired bus driver and several others had to dig the big bus out of the sand and get it back on the road. It was terribly hot at the beach—probably about 110 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit. Even though the beach was very dirty and the water was slimy, the beach was crowded with families in junky old cars they would drive up to the water’s edge.

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We returned to the city about 5:00 p.m., and then Anna Marie and I went with the eye surgeons, Dr. Carlos from Toronto, Canada, and Dr. Howard Harper of Vision International, to the flat of an American couple in Baku from Houston, Texas—Mr. and Mrs. Lelan Callaway. He is the manager of the Azerbaijan International Operating Company, an oil-conglomerate service company. They are very fine Christian people, and we had first met them at the morning church service.

The oil company had taken some of the old Soviet flats and totally remodeled them for housing of the expatriates. The Callaway’s flat was very lovely and had a grand view of the Caspian Sea, the parks, and the buildings of the old city. Their flat was on the top floor and was directly across from where the large white eye-clinic ship was harbored. Lelan Callaway had an oil-company car come to take us back to the guesthouse in time to eat dinner.

We met a good group of oil people who are staying at the guesthouse. Most of them are on a twenty-nine-day rotation system with their companies. They come to Baku for twenty-nine days, return to the US or England for another twenty-nine days, and then return again to Baku. Apparently the money is very good, and the program attracts some top-quality people.

Since the fall of the Soviet Union, the European and Central Asian countries come in and put money up to develop their resources. This land is particularly rich in oil, and countries like Azerbaijan are already feeling the effects of the influx of money that is being poured in from the West for development.

Jay Randall stopped by our room later this evening to strategize activities for tomorrow and Tuesday.

Next Week: Blind People See Again 


HOW TO FIX A BROKEN SOVIET? TravelJournal- 1996:Azerbaijan,Kazakhstan,UzbekistanBelarus

Author’s Note: At the beginning of this holiday season I want to share this multi-part episode of Project C.U.R.E.’s historic involvement in the early days of the collapsed Soviet Union. I will forever be grateful that we had the unique opportunity of helping to save thousands and thousands lives through significant medical intervention at a very critical period of history. A great big “Thank You” to all those who were involved with Project C.U.R.E. to make it happen.
 
Thursday June 13, 1996: Moscow, Russia: It still amazes me when I step back a few paces from my immersive involvement in Project C.U.R.E. and just look at what has happened in the past few years. In 1995 we were all astounded that in that year alone, Project C.U.R.E. had shipped out of its inventory medical supplies and equipment to eighteen different countries around the world. The wholesale value of the items shipped was in excess of ten million dollars. It really wasn’t that long ago when Anna Marie and I were sorting goods and packing them for shipping while standing in the cold shop at the end of our garage. I would take my trusty pickup truck and go to hospitals and local clinics and laugh and joke around with the supply managers, trying to successfully talk them out of their overstock.

Then I would get on the telephone and try to locate drug-company representatives and vendors and manufacturers of medical goods to plead my humanitarian case in an effort to persuade them to trust their excess supplies to me so that I could take them somewhere around the world and save some mom’s or dad’s or kid’s life. I would ask them if they really wouldn’t rather have me take those excess supplies off their hands and save lives with them than just have them thrown in a Dumpster where they would be buried in some landfill.

And now, many of those same people are calling our office on a regular basis and wanting to know when we will be by with a truck to pick up their donated supplies.

On Tuesday—June 11, 1996—I spoke at another Rotary International service club meeting and told them the story of Project C.U.R.E. I really had to admit to the audience that I was not smart enough make happen what has taken place over the past few years with Project C.U.R.E. It had been God directing things on this end and God working in the hearts and minds of the medical-supply donors on the other end of the equation that brought about an absolute miracle.

We at Project C.U.R.E. thought that 1995 was a high-water-mark miracle. But so far this year, we have already shipped to nineteen different countries around the world, and the year is not yet half over. This week the warehouse buildings are more full than they have ever been. Almost daily we have volunteers come in and help pick up donated supplies or work in the warehouse sorting and packing the medical goods. Now, different church groups and civic organizations have come alongside to help us.

I have never taken any kind of salary from Project C.U.R.E as long as it has been in existence. It has been a volunteer effort from a heart of praise and worship to God and an experiment of obedience to see what God can do with just a little if he has all there is of it.

I challenged the Rotary group to realize how special they are and accept the fact that they are very successful in the community, or else they would not have been accepted into that organization. But then I challenged them to move from success to “significance.” Even as successful as they are in their lives or careers, they need to now move into a position where they can dedicate their lives to something of greatness and significance. “Endeavor to do something so great,” I said, “that unless God intervenes, you will fail.”

Well, I am convinced that if for some reason Project C.U.R.E. has to cease its efforts, fold its tents, and move into oblivion today, that which has already been accomplished has been well worth the effort and, more important, has brought a smile to the face of God. Lots of his children are healthier today because of Project C.U.R.E. However, it doesn’t look, at this point, like we will be folding our tents very soon. There must be more work for us to do.

Thursday, June 13–Friday, June 14
This morning Anna Marie and I left Evergreen, Colorado, to climb onto another airplane to see if we can take a little help and hope to some other hurting people in some other faraway place—this time Central Asia.

Earlier this year we had shipped two cargo containers of donated medical goods to Baku, Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. It is now time to do a follow-up study on the effectiveness of our shipments and to evaluate our efforts in Azerbaijan.

Anna Marie had already agreed with Colorado Christian University (CCU) to teach throughout the summer session, but I stepped in with some paternal authority and said, “No way! It’s time you take a break. I’m going to kidnap you and take you to some places in this world where you have never been.”

Not only are we scheduled to go to Azerbaijan, but our itinerary calls for us to travel to Aktau, Almaty, and Dzhambul in Kazakhstan; Tashkent and Andijon in Uzbekistan; and Minsk, Belarus.

We left Denver at 10:45 a.m. on a Delta flight to John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York. Mary Gibson took us to the airport so that we will not have to pay an exorbitant amount of money for airport parking for the twenty-three days we are gone. But what are Vern and Mary Gibson doing in Denver? They are supposed to be running the Project C.U.R.E. warehouse and office in Phoenix, Arizona.

Vern and Mary had come to Denver with Stan and Kay Schirm. Stan is vice president of Food for the Hungry International and works out of the Food for the Hungry office in Phoenix. Since Project C.U.R.E. and Food for the Hungry are now doing so many projects together, Stan wanted to come to Denver and observe our operation. He had invited Vern and Mary to come with Kay and him.

We all got together for dinner in Evergreen on Monday evening, and Vern and Mary stayed at our guesthouse. They had planned to return to Phoenix on Tuesday, but when the Gibsons saw the details we were trying to take care of before leaving for Central Asia today, they called their boys in Phoenix and told them that they were going to stay in Denver for several more days. 

I’m not sure Anna Marie and I would have been able to leave today if the Gibsons had not had compassion on us and stayed to help. Dr. Rich Sweeney, our director of operations in Denver, had gone to Los Angeles, California, to oversee the setup and opening of Project C.U.R.E.’s two new warehouse locations in Southern California. So Vern pitched in with the warehouse details in Denver that were about to overtake us. Mary pitched in at the office and helped my executive assistant, Ruth Bittle, who was about to max out taking care of all her regular duties as well as coordinating the details of our trip.

Our flight to New York went well, except for our not being able to get aisle seats. On long trips, if I am not able to stretch my long legs into the aisle, I’m in big trouble.

Anna Marie and I switched planes in New York but stayed on Delta to Moscow. But in Moscow the trip began to go awry. Before we left Denver, we had experienced great difficulty getting all the needed visa permits to the different Central Asian countries. Actually, we left Denver without visas into either Kazakhstan or Uzbekistan, and we had been informed by the authorities that if we had Russian visas, we could actually pass through Kazakhstan (since it was a part of the old Soviet Union) as long as we didn’t stay over three days. So we obtained our Russian visas and thought we were all set. But indeed, we were not all set. 

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We flew into the Moscow international airport and then had to transfer across town to the airport that handles flights into Asia and parts of the old Soviet Union. Our taxi driver wanted to charge us sixty-five dollars for the ride to the other airport. I diplomatically (well, maybe not so diplomatically) told him to take a long walk off a short dock. I finally paid him twenty-five dollars.

Once inside the airport, Anna Marie and I learned that our flight was being delayed for at least one hour. Ultimately, it was delayed for over five hours, but the most frustrating occurrence at the airport, besides the pushing and shoving crowds on other domestic flights, was the fact that the woman at passport control stamped my passport and then kept the Russian visa. I explained to her that she was not to keep the visa, because I needed it for two reasons: (1) I was going to be coming back through Moscow from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, on my way to Frankfurt, Germany, and I was sure that they would require the visa for that; and (2) I would need the Russian visa in lieu of the Kazakhstan visa when traveling from Baku, Azerbaijan, to Aktau, Kazakhstan.

The agent and I went round and round with the encounter. She was in a booth and had my visa. She felt very certain that she was to keep my visa, and if I needed another visa in order to come back through Moscow on my way to Frankfurt, that was my problem. I could apply and pay for another Russian visa in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. She wouldn’t even waste her breath arguing about my needing a Russian visa to get into Kazakhstan. If you can believe it, I even went back to her booth later and tried again to plead my case … to no avail.

When Anna Marie and I finally arrived in Baku, Azerbaijan, a city of two and a half million, we were the last folk at the airport. It was still light outside, but it was well after 10:00 p.m. I was really ready to see Mr. Jay Randall, the head of the Caspian Project, with whom we had worked when sending our two cargo containers to Baku last year. But upon getting off the plane and checking through customs, we saw no one there at all to meet us. Since we were the last flight and the last remaining passengers of the night, lots of taxi drivers wanted to take us to the city, which was about twenty-five miles away. I told them, “Thanks,” but I was sure that my friend would be there soon to take us into the city.

However, no friend showed up. The airport cleared out, and it was getting real late. One taxi driver asked if he could help me phone my friend, who might have forgotten. I later found out that the phone number I had was for an office, and of course, the office was closed.

I asked the taxi driver if there were any phones at the airport where I could call for an international phone line. He even went to the manager of the airport, and they both said that the only international line was at an office in the city center, but by now it would be closed. I had determined that I could call Ruth in Denver and try to get some other local phone numbers. I knew that if we left the airport and Jay Randall came to pick us up, we would never find each other, because I had no helpful phone number.

Finally the taxi driver, who could speak a few sentences of English, remembered that there was an international phone at the Hyatt Regency hotel in town. The hotel was newly rebuilt, and they had installed such a line. My options were dwindling. There was a real possibility that Anna Marie and I would be staying in the dark airport all night. So I opted to have the taxi driver deliver us to the Hyatt. Even if they did not have a room for us, I could still phone the USA and try to get some valid phone numbers.

We arrived at the hotel, and the taxi driver actually came in to see if we would be all right. They happened to have a room available, so we took it and went to our room. Then I began trying to call the office. If we had not paid for a room, the hotel would not have allowed us to use the international line.

Saturday, June 15

After many attempts to get through to Ruth Bittle in Denver, I was finally able to reach her and ask her to send a fax to me including all the numbers she could dig up for Baku. Then Anna Marie and I went to bed. We had started out on Thursday morning, and now it was early Saturday morning, and we were still in our same clothes.

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At breakfast I determined that the best course of action for us was to try to secure some plane tickets in Baku and get to Aktau, Kazakhstan, as soon as possible. Our schedule called for us to leave Baku for Aktau on Tuesday June 18. But if what we were encountering was any indication of what we might expect for the next few days, our time would probably be better spent in Aktau.

None of our Central Asia flights could be booked or even verbally confirmed before we left Denver. The rule in Central Asia and Eastern Europe is that if you want to go somewhere, you go stand in line and see if that line helps you get there. If it doesn’t, you go stand in another line. Another problem is that the domestic airlines like Azerbaijan Airlines, Air Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan Airways don’t even know their own flight schedules. They might fly to a location once a week, or maybe, if things are going well and there are additional passengers, they will fly three times to that location a particular week.

Next Week: “Oh, no – you can’t get to Aktau from here.”


COST VS VALUE

Economic concepts and economic systems matter. We are individually better off when we slow down and begin to recognize the subtle signals of the economic structure and learn what they are telling us. A signal from the pricing system reveals to us dependable information that will help us make better decisions. Signals tell the producers what the consumer thinks something is worth. Signals tell me where to go to get the best deal. There is always a healthy friction of discontent between the producer who thinks he is receiving too little for the gallon of milk he produced and the mom who just knows the price is too high. That’s good.

While traveling around the world, I am intrigued as I observe various economic signals. I have seen with my own eyes that if you raise the cost of doing something, people will do less of it. There is no behavior that is not affected by cost. Higher income, for example, becomes one of the greatest controllers of the birth rate. When people become richer they have fewer babies (one of the cardinal factors of the occurrence of genocide in Rwanda—the Hutus were outbirthing the wealthier Tutsis nine to one).

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But there is another set of signals that I have been trying to process lately. There seems to be a direct and positive correlation between cost and value. Something that comes to you without cost will more than likely be regarded as having little or no value to you. You assign a higher value to something if it has cost you something. Studies have shown that a college student who has earned the money for his or her tuition will do better than the student who is on a free ride. A bike that is earned is treated better than a freebie.

An interesting thing happened to me in the early days of Project C.U.R.E. People who were preparing to travel to a foreign country and desired to take some donated medical goods with them to present to a foreign hospital or clinic or medical group needing clinical supplies for their mission would come to our warehouse and ask us to furnish them with the goods. We began to assemble boxes of about $1,500 worth of donated medical goods and just let them walk out the door with our blessing. Later, however, I discovered that should those well-intentioned people run into difficulties getting those boxes on the airplane as luggage, or should they encounter aggressive border or customs people upon entrance into the country, they would simply turn their backs and walk away from the donated goods, saying, “Oh, well, they were free to us, and when we need more we can go back to Dr. Jackson, and Project C.U.R.E. will always give us more.”

When I learned what was happening, I started charging a fee of $100 for the $1,500 worth of donated goods. That simple personal investment changed everything. From that date forward, we never lost a box. And now, even when we donate a huge ocean-going cargo container of medical goods valued at close to half a million dollars, we require the recipient country or sponsoring group to pay the cost of shipping and handling of the container as their buy-in requirement. That guarantees that the recipients will be at the customs building to protect their investment and see to it that the container is received by the hospital or clinic.

In my mental processing of this positive correlation between cost and value, I have come to this conclusion: as a rule of thumb, you can determine the true value to you of something by deciding how much of your personal life you would be willing to exchange for that object or service—because there is no behavior that is not affected by cost.


FIRST IN LINE

I always chortle a bit at the homespun wisdom of this saying: “The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!”

In our culture we have been fed the breakfast of champions and coached in the necessity of being first in line. It’s really important to always be first in line—or is it?

Recently I was in the quaint Balkan country of Bulgaria. I loved it enough that I wanted to go back at the first opportunity. I had agreed to travel from Colorado to Sofia, Bulgaria, to work with Carl Hammerdorfer, the country’s Peace Corps director. With the Peace Corps and Project C.U.R.E. working together as a team, we were able to accomplish some very ambitious projects of rebuilding and refurnishing some strategic medical facilities in Bulgaria.

The curious history of Bulgaria dates back to the fifth and sixth centuries BC. Genghis Khan had traipsed through the region with his bloody band and left his influence everywhere. The severity of the subsequent Roman occupation altered the social fabric as well as the landscape. The remains of Roman walls, forts, ports, and coliseums are abundant. The Ottoman Turks later raped the women, pillaged the economy, and defaced the real estate, as did the Communists more recently. While visiting the thriving cities of Plovdiv, Sofia, and Bourgas, I pledged that I would one day return on my own time and purchase some antiques.

One Tuesday was spent assessing a medical facility in the area of Starosel. Near the site was an ancient ruin that had recently been unearthed. It dated back to the sixth century B.C., and consisted of some cult temples and wine-making operations of the Thracian sect. The Bulgarian landscape in that district was punctuated with earthen mounds that the farmers had plowed around for many centuries.

Their curiosity had recently driven them to dig up some of the mounds and explore the contents. Consequently they discovered evidence of rumored traditions from past centuries.

Tradition held that the Turks had multiple wives. But when a husband was killed, or died of natural causes, his favorite wife would be buried with him. Since it was a great honor for a wife to be buried with her husband and thereby seal her place of honor and importance in history, disputes would often break out among the surviving wives as to who was the favorite and who would be first in line to be buried with the husband.

So, to settle disputes in a terminal way, the two top contenders would be bound together by leather straps at one ankle and one wrist. There was no way to get away from each other. Then they would each be given a dagger and be allowed to settle the dispute by death. The one successful survivor would then be killed as well and placed in the tomb with the husband in perpetuity as the most honored wife. 

Many of the earthen mounds have been excavated now, and scientists indeed have found such fatal wounds as knife punctures to the skull in the wives’ skeletons.

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When I heard of this morbid tradition, I thought to myself, There surely must have been a diplomatic way for a wife to defer all that posterity and glory to the other jealous contender by simply acknowledging that she was definitely not the most favored, and even share some anecdotal stories of how she had messed up along the way and not fully satisfied the husband at some point!

Demanding to always be first in line seems to me to be pretty costly and may deserve the consideration of at least another thirty-minute rethink. Sometimes it just might be more prudent to be the second mouse and keep the cheese.


STRANGE AND UNACCUSTOMED PATHS

One of the most satisfying episodes in my life was when the US Department of State awarded my efforts with one of their highest humanitarian recognitions: the Florence Nightingale Award.

In the fall of 2002, congressman Cass Ballenger in Washington, D.C., and ambassador Martin Silverstein from Uruguay called me and asked, “How fast can you get away and travel to Uruguay to do your Needs Assessment Study and get some donated medical goods to that country before its economic crisis deepens into a political crisis that would be hard to reverse?” The congressman served on the International Relations Committee, where he was chairman of the Subcommittee on the Western Hemisphere.

I agreed to drop what I was doing and immediately travel to Montevideo, Uruguay. Thanks to the help of the embassy staff and the office of the congressman, the project turned out very successfully, and for that I was given the coveted award. But the thrill of the ordeal was greatly enhanced by the fact that from my childhood I had been a great admirer of Florence Nightingale. When she was a little girl, she wanted to be a nurse, but her family thought it to be less than dignified, considering the deplorable practices and facilities where nurses had to work at that time. But during the Crimean War in 1854, soldiers from England were sent to the front to fight. Many were wounded and had no access to hospital care.

Florence Nightingale offered to go to the front. She was given the opportunity to gather up some nurses and travel to a battlefield hospital near Constantinople in Turkey. There she discovered a most dreadful scene, where nearly 2,500 British combat men lay helpless and unattended in the very worst of surroundings. The unsanitary conditions were deplorable, with open sewers and filthy clothing and blankets. There were no medical procedures or provisions available to the men, and many were dying, not from their original wounds, but from rampant disease and infection spawned from the filthy conditions.

The calm but forceful nurse used her leadership skills not only to attack the problems of the immediate situation but to change the British health-care system altogether. The new female recruits organized themselves into a cleaning brigade. They cleaned out the rats’ nests, washed down the facilities, and scrubbed down the patients, even to their fleainfested scalps. Nothing escaped the cleanliness of the new brush brigade. Immediately there was a dramatic drop in the death rate in the field hospitals. The wounded soldiers began to respond well to the medical treatment. The morale jumped by leaps and bounds. The nurses’ approach had consisted of hard work and cleanliness. Even when there was no money available from the British government, Florence Nightingale went personally to donors and raised money for medical supplies and bedclothes.

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Some believed that she was able to reduce the mortality rate of the wounded soldiers by as much as seventy-five percent.

All of Britain declared her a heroine upon her return to London. But Florence Nightingale’s own health was in shambles. Following the war she was pretty much homebound for the remainder of her life. Yet she never gave up the successful fight to radically reform Great Britain’s health-care delivery system. From her bed she continued to put the pressure on health officials and parliament to implement reform. As one person she was able to leverage her position and influence. She became an agent of change for the entire philosophy and protocol of the British health-care system.

But the part of Florence Nightingale’s story that so intrigued me, and made the State Department’s award so special to me, was the nurse’s own quote when questioned about her accomplishments:

           If I could give you information of my life, it would be to show how a woman of very ordinary ability has been led of God in strange and unaccustomed paths to do in His service what He has done in her. And if I could tell you all, you would see how God has done all and I nothing. I have worked hard, very hard, that is all; and I have never refused God anything.


WEALTH IS NOT STUFF

As a culture, we have opted to believe that the wealth of an individual can be measured by how much stuff he or she has accumulated and can put on display. Accumulation of icon items surely proves beyond a doubt that we have prevailed in the race to riches and are obnoxiously successful, doesn’t it? If we possess stuff we are considered wealthy; therefore, we are to be considered valuable people in society.

As an economist, I want to soothe your soul and give some consolation. That prevailing presumption always has been and always will be this world’s belief. Little consideration has been given throughout history to the simple fact that the idea is an unfounded lie. Portugal and Spain raced to the New World in the sixteenth century, stole enormous amounts of gold, and took it back home. About the only thing they accomplished was to force the prices in their respective countries up by 200 percent while believing the false notion that having more money in their society would make them wealthy.

In 1917, the Bolsheviks in Russia believed that if they could just get their hands on the golden egg held by the czars, they could divvy up the riches amongst themselves and live happily ever after. When they ran out of the czars’ assets, they had to expand into Central Asia and rape and pillage the people there. They had bought into an untrue myth. It doesn’t really make any difference how big a pile of stuff you accumulate or how much diversity is included in the pile, wealth is not stuff. You consume stuff. It deteriorates, depreciates, and ultimately disappears. And everyone else, especially the government, wants to take it away from you because they too believe the pile is wealth.

So, what is wealth? Wealth is production. Wealth is the opportunity to participate in enterprise. Wealth is the phenomenon that converts resources into sustainable enterprise and additional production. Cultures that allow and encourage enterprise are wealthy. Cultures that do not allow and encourage enterprise are poor! The result of successful enterprise and production is stuff, not the other way around. Cultures that do not understand the difference and greedily go after the pile of stuff and the golden egg, end up in revolution or bankruptcy, killing enterprise and production in the process.

History is disgustingly full of examples of consequences where cultures mistakenly went after the acquisition of the golden egg at the expense of enterprise and production. With my own eyes I watched the tragedy of Rhodesia/Zimbabwe unfold as I traveled there over a thirty-year period. One of my first economic consulting assignments was to Robert Mugabe’s “new Zimbabwe.” Under enterprise and production, Rhodesia had become the breadbasket of Africa. Beautiful, well-run farms with concrete irrigation ditches, modern equipment, and up-to-date technology produced abundant crops to feed the entire country with tons left over for export.

It was simply too fine an egg to go unstolen. The tragic misunderstanding was that if there were some way to grab the pile of stuff, the wealth would be miraculously transferred to the politicians in charge of the transfer. Not so. There was total disregard for the economics of enterprise and production. In subsequent years when I returned to Zimbabwe, my heart would ache while driving the roads outside Harare, Chitungwiza, and Bulawayo. The houses had been stripped of valuable items. In the fields were broken pieces of farm equipment, and the silos stood empty of crops. Farm prices were manipulated by government, and people were going hungry.

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A decree went out to the last of the hold-out farmers that they were to surrender their farms to the “people” of Zimbabwe and leave the country by August 8, 2002. I arrived in Harare on Wednesday, August 7. I could not have visited Zimbabwe at a more potentially explosive time. One of my acquaintances from a previous trip had refused to leave his farm. An ambush had been set for him. He was tied to a tree, beaten, and shot fourteen times. The murderous villagers then left the dead farmer in the road, where his dog faithfully laid by his side for three days until some of the other farmers found him.

Another farmer, whom I had met at a church in Harare on an earlier trip, was visited in person by a high-ranking official in the government. He had been told, “I know you love this farm. It has been in your family for three generations, so let’s solve this problem in the easiest way: (1) You deed all your farm, livestock, and equipment to me personally, and I will keep it out of the hands of the hostile masses; (2) then you stay on and run the farm for me, as you now are, and you will not get hurt. That’s a wonderful solution for everyone.”

On August 9 the media reported that there were approximately two thousand farmers still on their farms. By midnight another six hundred had left. Because greed had trumped sane economics, the robbers presumed that the farms would simply run themselves, and the pile of stuff would always be there. In their rush to grab the golden egg, they had sadly stepped on the neck of the goose that had been laying the golden eggs. They only saw the golden eggs and wanted the pile of stuff for themselves. But the stuff vanished. They had killed the phenomenon of enterprise, and as production stopped, wealth disappeared. The food to feed Zimbabwe had come off those farms, and the people who were once employed by enterprise were jobless.

There’s a very high price to pay when the greed of a culture violates basic economic principles. But there is one economic principle about which we need not get confused: Wealth is not stuff    


PARKER BROTHERS, POKER and the MYTH

Parker Brothers made millions of dollars marketing the table game Monopoly. It takes two to three hours to play a round of the game. Its history can be traced back to 1904, when it was developed as a teaching tool to explain the single tax theory.

Poker is a game where betting begins with some form of forced bet by one of the players. Each player is betting that the hand he has will be the highest ranked. Each of the other players must either match the maximum previous bet or fold.

Both games include one striking similarity: one player ends up with more only as another player ends up with less. They are zero-sum games. The only way one can gain is at the expense of someone else. It is like an apple pie: if one person eats more, another person gets less. Over the years many well-intentioned folks have swallowed this analogy as an axiomatic factor of life. If you have something, it is because someone else does not. You took it away from someone else, or you wouldn’t have more. It becomes very easy to deduce that the reason we have an abundance of poor people in the world is because we have a few other people who have grabbed a huge portion of the pie and left everyone else without. Before careful examination of the issue, I used to swallow that reasoning hook, line, and sinker.

One day I was doing some research for a paper I was writing. The material I was reading raised the fact that the three richest men in the world control more wealth than all six hundred million people living in the world’s poorest countries. I was tempted to embrace the seemingly obvious point that the reason there are six hundred million impoverished people in the poorest countries is because the three men had snagged all the money before it got to the six hundred million. At that point I had to ask myself the realistic question, “How much additional money would those six hundred million persons have in their pockets today had Bill Gates and his two other buddies not earned all that money?” I was forced to answer, “Probably not one additional penny,” because wealth is a different myth. It is not a clump of something; it is not a zero-sum game. The gains of the winners are not simply products of theft. People can grow wealth if they are allowed to do so. People can create successful enterprise and thus create wealth and enrich all who are associated with the undertaking. Production is the wealth. At the end of my research, I was faced with a different question: “Just why have the six hundred million people in the poorest countries not been able to produce more than they have?”

I have walked this world’s slums and have become acquainted with the locations of abject poverty. I wasn’t on a luxury tour bus—poverty was the location of my work for twenty-five years. I have been driven by the belief  that something positive can be done to reverse poverty. Strong economies cannot be built on sick people. So, for more than twenty-five years, Project C.U.R.E. has been dedicated to taking health and hope to over 125 developing countries of the world.

A most delightful and encouraging phenomenon crossed my pathway while trying to deal with ingrained poverty. The United Nations declared 2005 the International Year of Microcredit. And in 2006 the Nobel Peace Prize went to Muhammad Yunus for his work providing microcredit to the poor.

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The idea germinated in Bangladesh in 1976 with the Grameen Bank delivering small loans at low interest rates to rural poor. The program became a popular tool for economic development throughout the developing world and sparked a revolution in micro-entrepreneurship. The newly created enterprises generated employment, and the efforts began to create and grow real wealth. Today 75 percent of all microcredit recipients worldwide are women who are now given a chance to establish a sustainable means of income. Growing the enterprises increases disposable income. That leads to more economic growth and development.

The new business owners of the microenterprises don’t have more because someone else in the village has less. Others in the village, in fact, also end up with more. Everyone starts to become better off. What a glorious experience it is to see the power of debilitating poverty being reversed, and people who have been held down by governments and tradition being given an opportunity to become part of the solution rather than the problem.

Using zero-sum thinking is acceptable at the Parker Brothers’ Monopoly board or the challenging poker table, but please, don’t succumb to the temptation of applying zero-sum thinking to the economics of real life.


INDIA JOURNAL 2004 (Part 6)

Tuesday June 22, 2004: Madras, India and Osaka, Japan: A lot of the mornings on the India trip included getting up at 4:30 a.m. or earlier, including the one at home when I was headed to the airport and had to leave our guests from Port Harcourt, Nigeria, at our guest house.
                     
 Tuesday was another one of those mornings.  We had to be out of Miraj and all the way to Kolhapur in order to catch the return leg of the Deccan Airways flight back to Bombay. Dr. Bidari was up and saw me off before he trudged over to the hospital to start his long list of surgeries for Tuesday.

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Once in Bombay I had a substantial layover before I proceeded on to Madras on Indian Airways.  Likewise, I had another layover in Madras before catching the Thai Airlines flight #TG774 at 12:05 a.m. on Wednesday, June 23.  That segment took me back to Osaka, Japan, and then another leg carried me into Los Angeles.  Eventually I made it back to Denver International Airport and home.
 
We were now cutting a pretty wide swath through India.  We were joining with some good global partners like the Nazarenes, Presbyterians, Baptists, Seventh Day Adventists, International Rotary, the state department and even Congress. 

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God was seeing to it that His plan for helping needy and sick people all over the world was taking form through a simple little organization called Project C.U.R.E.  He had arranged for Project C.U.R.E. to become presently the largest supplier of donated medical goods around the world.  That was pretty awesome and exciting.
 
I have to admit something here as I call a halt to the India journal entry.  I really missed Mom Jackson and her prayers for Project C.U.R.E. and for my personal safety.  She was such an enthusiastic fan of what was happening.  Every morning of her life I knew that she was up early praying for me and for the work of Project C.U.R.E., and sometimes even in the middle of the night when I was off in some crazy unsafe place,
 
She had been gone now since October and several times on this trip I caught myself wanting to hurry home, sit down on the sofa with her while I sipped some tea, and tell her all about the exciting things we were getting to do now in over 100 countries around the world.
 
I knew the look she would have in her eyes and the rapid-fire questions she would have asked about the people and the places.  Then she would share with me the answers to some of the prayers that had taken place since I had been gone.
 
I had mentioned recently to Anna Marie how much I was missing Mom lately and especially her prayers, and Anna Marie simply shot back, “Well, I wouldn’t worry a lot about that, she’s closer to the ear of God now than she ever was in her life here.”  I liked that.
 
I’m a happy man, thankful that God entrusted to us these years with this funny organization called Project C.U.R.E.


INDIA JOURANL 2004 (Pt. 5)

Monday June 21, 2004: Kolhapur and Miraj, India: I was happy that I had not jumped to a false conclusion about Dr. Bidari over the airline tickets to Miraj and simply headed home after finishing my work at Reynolds Memorial Hospital in Washim, India.  That would have been a mistake.
 
Upon arriving at the Wanless compound I was ushered to another missionary guest house called the “Fletcher Hall.”  I had previously met Dr. Fletcher, for whom the building was named, on one of my trips to Houston to hold meetings with the board of directors of MBF.

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I dropped my luggage off at room #4 and smiled broadly when I realized it had an air-conditioning unit in a back window.
 
Dr. Ebenezer R. Bidari, M.D., MS, surgeon, FACS, FCAMS, etc. had spent his entire 35-year career at the Wanless Hospital.  He had grown up through the ranks of the outstanding hospital and college of nursing, practicing his surgery there and teaching too.  They could not have chosen a finer director to run the hospital than Dr. Bidari.  I learned to respect him from the moment I met up with him at the dining room of Fletcher Hall ten minutes after I arrived in Miraj.
 
As soon as I had finished lunch, Dr. Bidari escorted me to the administration building where he had assembled his medical administrative team for our introduction meeting.  Our needs assessment study began just that fast.  By six o’clock we had not finished the study, but we were finished with the day.
 
I had a dorm room to myself and took my meals at the Fletcher Hall dining area.  The small beds were equipped with mosquito nets so, along with that and the AC, it was very comfortable.
 
The rainy season had not only started back in Washim but had started also in Miraj.  Oh, how it rained!  Washim area had been semi-arid, rolling countryside.  Miraj was more tropical with some mountains nearby.  The fresh rain had turned Miraj into a spot of Indian beauty.

Sunday, June 20
 
Dr. Bidari lived in a stone house just across the small road from Fletcher Hall within the compound.  On Saturday evening he had invited me to attend the Presbyterian church service with his family on Sunday morning, after which we would go to their home and share lunch.
 
The original stone Presbyterian church was still being used after almost 100 years of continued service.  I couldn’t help thinking, as I sat in the old grand building and listened to the minister preach a sermon on stewardship, just how many lives had found their way across the oceans and across India to help and influence the Christian work there in Miraj over the past 110 years.  So many, many lives had contributed to God’s work there over the years that only eternity would reveal the good that had been made possible there.
 
I needed Sunday in Miraj.  During the afternoon and early evening I was able to read and write some and catch up on my paperwork and reports. By 7:30 p.m., we went to the chapel on the hospital campus where we attended evening worship services conducted by the students and chaplain of the nursing college.

Monday, June 20
 
The previous 13 years of dry climate and especially the past four years of drought had really brought hardship to that part of India.  They had borrowed money to plant their crops and had gone deeply into debt to purchase food to keep their livestock alive.  In the years 2002 and 2003, the banks had to simply quit loaning money to the deeply indebted farmers.  So the farm families were, of necessity, forced to sell or kill off their holdings.  It had been an extremely tough time for the entire region.
 
But now, the rains had come.  I could lie in my bed and listen to the thunder roll across the thirsty plains bringing with it the life-giving moisture they all needed there.  The people I met were even optimistic and the common topic of conversation was about how good it was to smell and feel the rain again.
 
But, of course, the rain brought the mosquitoes.  I was glad that I had started on my malaria medicine before I left home.  The once-a-week prophylactic was well into my blood stream and liver by the time I encountered the pesky pinheads.  You can bet I still used my mosquito netting over my bed each night, however.

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I attended the early morning chapel service on the compound Monday morning and drank in the words of a wise old Indian speaker who brought the devotions.  His talk centered on John 21:15-19, “Peter, do you love me?”  It vividly brought back to me the memory of my own encounter 30 years ago when God rode in the front seat of that big, dark-blue Mercedes 600 limousine that I was driving and starkly confronted me with the “do you love me?” sequence.  Oh, what wonderful years I had enjoyed since that March 12th night in the snow-covered hills of Colorado!  It was worth the trip to India just to be energetically reminded of that life-altering experience.
 
The program that Dr. Bidari had laid out for me for Monday was to finish my assessment at the hospital and college of nursing, then together we would ride to several of the outlying clinics to observe the work that the staff, nurses and students were doing for the communities served by Wanless.

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The first outpost was located in the village of Bedag.  The structural facility was very adequate but the pieces of equipment and supplies were pretty “slim pickin’.”  We talked about taking some of the present assets from the Miraj Hospital out to the clinics once they were replaced by items sent from Project C.U.R.E.

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In the afternoon we drove back to Kolhapur, then beyond to a city called Nipani, where the Presbyterians had operated the Lafayette Hospital under the umbrella of Wanless Hospital.  It was a 45-bed facility under the directorship of another able surgeon, Dr. Sunil Sase.  He was prepared for me.  He did a wonderful job of presenting his projects and his lists of much-needed things for Project C.U.R.E.
 
He was bright, articulate and had great plans for his hospital.  His father had been the director there before him and was dedicated to seeing the institution continue in its successes.
 
All along the roadway between Kolhapur and Miraj there were groups of people walking and clanging cymbals and playing sitars and carrying orange banners of silk.  Most of them were dressed in white.  I inquired as to who they were.  Dr. Bidari explained to me that they were pilgrims who, having admitted they were sinners, were making treks to the temples to pay physical and financial sacrifices to be cleansed of their sins.  They would take three or four weeks out of their lives and travel about 15 to 20 miles a day across the country, sleeping out in the fields or in some sympathizer’s farmyard until they reached their destination.
 
They also punished themselves along the way to enhance their likelihood of being cleansed of sin once they attended the temple.  Some were walking on sharp stones and carrying their shoes.  Others were fasting, taking in no food along the way.  One man impressed me especially.  He would stand, then fall the length of his body.  The length of his body determined where he would stand up next to proceed with his next fall.  He would cover about a five- or six-foot distance with each fall.  That was the way he traveled, five or six feet at a flop.
 
I studied the folks as best I could as we approached and passed them.  They were mostly middle-aged men and women.  The men always led the group, which counted from about a dozen to 30.  The women walked lock-step at the rear.  I could see that it was a very solemn occasion for each.  The sincerity and determination etched in their faces convinced me of their seriousness.
 
Dr. Bidari told me that the system was quite a temporary thing in that as soon as they completed the ritual they would head right back into whatever indulgence it was from which they were trying to be cleansed.  So, the next year they would have to take off another three to six weeks from their regular duties and proceed on another walkathon for cleansing.
 
As we bumped along beside one group, the words and melody line from a church song we used to sing when I was a kid flashed onto the monitor of my mind:
 
            Lord Jesus I long to be perfectly whole
            I want you forever to live in my soul
            Break down every idol, cast out every foe
            Now wash me and I will be whiter than snow
            Whiter than snow, yes, whiter than snow
            Now wash me and I shall be whiter than snow.
 
For evangelical Christians and strong denominations to have been in India for as long as they had, we sure hadn’t gotten the simple message of Christ’s plan of salvation, sacrifice, and forgiveness across to the hurting population of India.  Less than 5% of all the population of India claimed to be Christian. 
 
We didn’t get back from our road trip to Nipani until well after 9 p.m. Monday night.  The chef at the Fletcher Hall had dinner waiting for me.
 
Next Week: I miss my Mom